In July, we also ended up visiting Koli. It was an extremely hot period, but since there was no better alternative, we had to head to Koli despite the heat. We drove to Koli from the Joensuu side, stopping for lunch at Kolinportti before continuing to the hills. From Koli village, we drove up to the parking areas, planning to have a nice day trip. Despite the heat, many others had the same idea—the parking lots were completely packed, and some had even left their cars in slightly questionable spots. Luckily, we managed to find a spot fairly quickly. So, a quick gear check, toddler in the carrier, sunscreen applied, and off we went.
We took the funicular up to the starting point of Koli’s trails. The Sokos Hotels Spa sounded tempting, but this time, we weren’t here to relax in the water—we were here to explore Koli. I had been there once as a child, but my memories were quite vague. We hiked the "Huippujen reitti" (Summit Trail), which takes you around Koli’s main peaks, saving the highlight, Ukko-Koli, for last.
Perhaps the crowds had dispersed onto Koli’s other trails, because even though there were a lot of people, the trail itself wasn’t too congested. Don’t get me wrong—it was probably the busiest nature site I’ve ever visited, but it still wasn’t as packed as the number of cars had suggested.
The trail itself was simple and easy. We had a minor detour when we accidentally climbed straight up Akka-Koli, so we had to adjust our route. We doubled back a little to make sure we passed the Temple of Silence along the way. From there, we continued lightly towards Ukko-Koli, where we took the obligatory social media and photo break. Then, we descended the stairs to the nature center and hotel courtyard, made a quick stop at Järnefelt’s relief and the sacrificial crack. Koli has a rich, almost mystical history, which is well presented on the nature information boards along the route.
The views from the summits were breathtaking, and I can understand why Koli’s landscape over Lake Pielinen is considered Finland’s national scenery. Deep green summer forests and the lake view—is there anything more Finnish?
Still, there’s something about Koli that makes it a must-visit for everyone at least once. However, this summit hike didn’t leave me with a strong urge to return. For me, being in nature is about peace, reflection, and taking in the surroundings, not waiting in line with a crowd. Maybe next time I’ll try one of Koli’s lesser-known trails? Or perhaps explore other sights in North Karelia?
A decade ago, I hiked part of Susitaival, and I’ve also spent a weekend in Ruunaa. There’s so much to experience in North Karelia—it might just be an overlooked gem in Finnish hiking culture. The region has huge potential for growing tourism.
As for Koli itself, I’d rate it 2/5. I don’t long to go back, but I still recommend everyone to see this national landscape at least once. Would I go there again on purpose? Probably not.
On the way to our accommodation, we stopped at Ahveninen Beach. It’s incredibly well-maintained, with a long sandy shore and shallow water that makes it perfect for families with kids. The beach also has toilets (outhouses?), changing rooms, a beach volleyball court, and a children’s playground. It’s described as Joensuu’s most beautiful beach, and without having seen the others, I can say—it’s a top spot. I highly recommend making the trip here on a warm summer day, even from farther away. Ahveninen Beach is the place to be.
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